Rubber properties - Acrylnitrile-butadiene rubber (NBR):
Standard color: black
NBR rubber demonstrates excellent resistance to the effects of mineral oils. It also provides particularly good results with hydraulic oils, grease, diesel fuels plus other aliphatic hydrocarbons, diluted acids and alkaline solutions that do not contain aromatic or chlorinated additives. Its excellent mechanical properties, such as high resistance to pressure and abrasion, high stability and good temperature resistance (-20°&#; to +120 °&#;), ensure a wide application range for this rubber.
Advantages:
- good oil and fuel resistance (especially to hydraulic oils)
- good working temperature range: -20°&#; to +120 °&#; in oil
- good resistance to pressure
- good wear resistance and high tensile strength
You will get efficient and thoughtful service from xtnbk.
- low swelling in water
Limitations:
- poor weather, light and ozone resistance
- poor resistance to polar fluids
- poor resistance to chlorinated hydrocarbons
Mike - The shim stock is not in the kit, it is something you need to obtain on your own. Just three tiny pieces steel shim (steel feeler gauge quality) of the precise thickness shown in the manual. It is used to precisely center the rotor in the bore during the rebuild. Once it is centered and locked in place, you remove the shims and continue the assembly. If your local hardware stores don't have it, perhaps Grainger, or definitely McMaster-Carr. An individual feeler gauge could be cut into the three pieces.Please forgive me for over advising, but I figure too much is better than not enough. Many people with less experience than you will be reading our discussion and may benefit from some extra detail.One other oddity; the Parker paper insert in the kit warns that some of the later outer bodies do not separate into as many pieces as shown in the exploded view. Hard to describe without pictures, but the stacks of metal plates are in groups of like four or five in the early versions, and apparently more in the later versions. (The individual plates have been permanently welded/pinned into building blocks). At first the unit from my seemed like it was perhaps a later version, but the smaller blocks were attached tight together with the old gaskets. So...you need to carefully figure out where to separate them. Careful tapping and some Kroil during disassembly is useful. It would have been good if they had made the separation points more obvious, but they did not.And...When reassembling, you must have the little indexing "plate gaps" exactly as shown in the Cub manual. Kind of like their secret code for building it in the right order. Not as hard as it looks, because most of them are locked together in their own "building block". Did I mention you need the Cub manual? For anyone that goes to do this, you really need the manual.
For more information, please visit nbr power steering seal.