Justin Eckelberg and Craig Saxe, UW-Extension Juneau County
Revised: 6/18/2013
Item number: XHT1214
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When it comes to digging in the garden or pruning trees and shrubs, having high quality tools that are cleaned, lubricated, sharpened and otherwise properly maintained, makes any outdoor job simpler and more efficient. Clean, well-maintained tools take less effort to work the ground than those that are rusted and caked with soil. Sharp tools are especially important for properly cutting grass, pruning tree and shrub branches and even pruning herbaceous ornamentals and houseplants.
How do I clean my tools? Always try to clean your tools after each use. Rinse tools under running water or soak them in water. Then remove any remaining soil using a cloth, bristle brush or wire brush. Get rid of any sap that may have collected on cutting tools with soapy water or turpentine. If tools are rusted (whether it be shovels, hoes, saws or pruning shears), use coarse-grade steel wool or lump pumice to remove the rust. Use abrasive materials like sandpaper, emery cloth or a putty knife cautiously as they can leave scratches where rust can redevelop. Disinfest tools by treating them for at least 30 seconds with 10% bleach or preferably 70% alcohol (because of its less corrosive properties). Rubbing alcohol and many spray disinfectants typically contain approximately 70% alcohol. Once tools are clean, rust-free and dry, apply oil, WD-40, silicone spray or some other rust inhibitor to all metal surfaces.
How do I sharpen my tools? Start by always wearing safety glasses and leather gloves to protect your eyes, face and hands; also always use a vise to securely clamp tools being sharpened. Typically, garden tools should be sharpened so that their cutting edges are kept at their original angle. If you make an edge too blunt, a blade will not cut well. If you make a blade too sharp, the edge will wear prematurely. You can sharpen either into or away from the cutting edge. Sharpening into the edge produces a sharper edge, but increases the risk of cutting yourself as you sharpen. For increased safety, face the sharp edge or your tool away from you and stroke down the slope across the cutting edge. This will create a metal burr (i.e., a rough edge) on the back of the tool’s cutting edge. Remove the burr using a light flat stroke of a file, whetstone, or sandpaper along the back of the cutting edge.
Specific sharpening techniques vary depending upon the particular tool.
Shovels and hoes: The most commonly used sharpening tool for shovels and hoes is a 10 inch mill file, which can be purchased at any hardware store. Mill files cut only on the forward stroke, so do not apply pressure on the back stroke. To sharpen the edge of the blade, hold the file securely with both hands and push away from your body with long steady strokes. Be sure to hold the file at the same angle as the tool’s original angle. As you push down with the file, also push it to the side and across the blade. Keep doing this until you have a smooth, even edge across the entire blade at the desired angle. After filing is complete, turn the tool over, clamp it back into the vice and remove the metal burr as described above. Note that many inexpensive shovels and hoes are manufactured using a stamping machine, which leaves their cutting edges blunt and square. For these tools, you must first create a new cutting edge. Typically, a 30° angle is recommended. To visualize this angle, remember that the edge of the freshly filed metal will be twice as wide as the metal is thick.
Loppers, pruning shears and hedge shears: Use a file or whetstone to sharpen these tools, and if possible, sharpen into the cutting edge. Some loppers and pruning shears have two cutting edges; both cutting edges of these tools need to be sharpened. Other loppers and pruning shears have a thin, sharp blade that slides past a blunt angled cutting bar, called an anvil; only the sharp blade of these tools needs to be sharpened. Sharpening must be uniform so the two cutting edges, or the cutting edge and the anvil, meet at every point. If an anvil has nicks or scratches, these can be removed with a small rat-tail, three-cornered or tapered file. Hedge shears should be sharpened to their original factory angle. Most hedge shears have a distinctive squared tip that is approximately 1/16 of an inch thick. If a hedge shear blade is bent, separate the blades, put the bent blade in a vise and tweak it until it is straight.
Saws: Pruning, camping and bow saws are typically not sharpened, because replacement blades are relatively inexpensive. Typically, chain saws are the only type of saws that are sharpened due to the cost of replacement blades. When sharpening any saw, both a cross-cut file with a rounded edge and triangular file will be needed. Be sure the size of the file matches the size of the teeth being sharpened. Sharpen teeth so that they retain their original angles.
Axes: Not all axes have the same blade angle, so it’s important to follow the original angle. Also, many axes have a double tapered angle composed of a ½ to 1 inch long angle that extends roughly 1/16 of an inch from the edge of the blade toward the handle, and a sharper angle, roughly 1/16 of an inch wide at the cutting edge. Inspect the blade for chips or nicks, and remove them with a grinder, being careful not to burn (overheat) the edge. Keep a bucket of water handy to douse the head after each pass. If the blade has only small nicks or irregularities, a 10 inch mill file could be used instead of the grinder. Finish by using a sharpening stone. Slide the stone back and forth in a circular motion multiple times along the edge on one side then repeat on the other side.
Grass-cutting tools: When possible, sharpen grass cutting tools into the cutting edge; otherwise be prepared to remove the metal burr as previously described. Long-handled swinging knives and curved scythes have thinner edges for easy cutting. The blades on these tools should be sharpened to a 20° to 22° angle. Normally these tools can be sharpened several times with a sharpening stone before eventually needing to be sharpened using a grinder or file. Grass shears are made of a very hard metal that requires sharpening with a sharpening stone, grinding wheel or diamond/tungsten carbide file.
What other tool maintenance do I need to worry about? Handles are an important component of all tools and need to be kept in good condition. Tighten loose screws or bolts as needed. Clean handles with a stiff-bristle brush, and use medium grit sandpaper to smooth wood and remove splinters. Use boiled linseed oil to prevent wood handles from drying out, cracking, and splintering. Be sure to read and understand the linseed oil label; handled incorrectly, linseed oil soaked material can spontaneously ignite. As an alternative, use a rubber coating spray on wood handles to give them a better grip and to reduce wear and tear.
This publication is part of the Community and School Gardens series.
When it comes to community gardening, some gardens provide only a water hose, and individual gardeners must bring their own tools. However, many community and school gardens get started with a mini-grant or donation to purchase supplies and materials. It can be difficult to know what tools are best when buying for a large number of gardeners. There are some basic guidelines that would apply to everyone. For example, poor quality garden tools do not last very long and unnecessary tools get left in the tool shed. If possible, borrow tools to get started and buy tools only when the need arises. Shop in garden catalogs for the largest selection. Consider the age and skill level of those who will be using the tools. In the world of garden tools, one size does not fit all.
There are literally hundreds of different gardening tools -- some for everyday use, and some for specialized tasks. For every tool, you need to consider how it is made, the materials it's made of and physical features like weight and length. Some tools just feel better than others and without testing them all, it's difficult to know which is best. In general, smaller tools are easier for most people to handle and cause less stress to the body when used. For most gardening work, a "D" shaped handle is easier to grip than a straight handle. Handles come in different diameters. The smaller the diameter, the easier small hands can hold onto the tool. Short-handled tools encourage a better body stance, but most people are more familiar with long-handled tools. When used properly, longhandled tools require less bending, but beware of lifting heavy loads far from the body and twisting to move the load. Each tool length has a place in the garden, depending on who will be using the tool and the type of work being done.
Many tools are now made from plastic or composite materials. These are much lighter than wood or steel, but tend to be more brittle and crack from high-impact activities. Traditional wood handles absorb the shock of impact better than steel, but wood is not as strong as steel (or even heavy-duty fiberglass handles) and wood can cause splinters as it ages. However, a high-quality wood handle that is oiled and kept protected from the weather will last for years.
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The connection between the handle and the "head" of the tool is more important than the handle material because this is the place where most tools fail. In general, higher quality tools have a socket fitting where the handle fits into the "head" and is held in place with bolts or rivets.
The shovel is probably the most-used hand tool in the garden. Shovels come in all sizes and shapes. Choosing the right one depends on who is using it and the job to be done. One common mistake made is selecting a shovel that is too heavy to handle easily or too large for the task. Round point shovels are good for digging while flat shovels are good for moving materials. A good short-handled garden spade with a narrow head is excellent for transplanting larger plants. Every garden toolshed should have at least one short-handled garden spade with a D-shaped handle, long-handled round point shovels in two different sizes, and a few long-handled flat head shovels. A short-handled coal shovel is also very useful for moving mulch, but will not be used as often as the others.
There are basically two different types of rakes: an iron rake (bow rake or garden rake) for grooming and smoothing, and a leaf rake for raking leaves. Most community and school gardens will likely use a bow rake more frequently and it would be less likely to break. A well-stocked toolshed should have one leaf rake and at least two bow rakes, preferably with flat teeth.
A trowel is a small shovel you hold in your hand. Trowels are very useful for planting vegetable transplants and digging weeds. The handle of a trowel should be easy to grip (not too thick) and the head of the trowel should be secure (not two-piece construction). Foam handles are more comfortable. Trowels with a narrow head are easier to use than those with a wide head. Many trowels advertised as "ergonomic" are actually uncomfortable to use and very expensive. The average community or school garden should have at least four to six trowels in at least two different handgrip sizes.
There are so many different types of hand pruners that it is hard to describe them all. Hand pruners will be used frequently in the garden, and many times not for their intended purpose. Hand pruners are built to prune or cut back plants, but can also be used for harvesting crops like peppers, eggplant and okra. Buy several pairs of pruners in two different sizes. Consider buying a few high-quality pruners for pruning woody plants and several inexpensive ones for the everyday tasks. Two-handed pruners, called loppers, will come in handy for cutting down corn stalks and larger plants. Follow these additional guidelines for purchasing hand pruners.
Pigskin leather is the best overall material for work gloves for many reasons. However, leather gloves tend to cost more and are harder to wash and clean. Leather also gets stiff after getting wet or cold. Newer-style gloves use synthetic leather or combine leather with tough nylon materials. These cost a little more but last longer. Brown cloth gloves are very cheap, but allow no gripping of tools and provide no protection from thorns. Cheap suede leather gloves with canvas cuffs are commonly available, but they provide limited dexterity and can rip or tear easily. Knit gloves, like the brown cloth gloves, are slippery and provide limited protection from punctures. At some garden centers and building supply stores you can find knit gloves with a rubberized coating on the palm side. These are very inexpensive, provide some puncture protection, allow some gripping of tools, and can be washed.
Children's tools are often made of lightweight materials and poorly constructed. It is hard to find good quality, long lasting tools that fit the small hands of children, especially very young children. Hand trowels are generally a safe bet, as are small sized, short-handled shovels and bow rakes. These are easily found at garden centers. Leaf rakes for kids are generally too flimsy and used infrequently. Remember, kids' tools often get left outside, so look for aluminum or fiberglass handles.
The consumer options for a garden cart have increased dramatically over the last 10 years. The decision for which cart to purchase will depend on both the intended use and budget. Keep the following points in mind when shopping for a wheelbarrow or cart:
For big workdays at community or school gardens it is tempting to purchase large quantities of tools. To avoid extra expense, it is best to consider what type of work is planned and how many people will actually be using each tool. Items like gloves will be needed for everyone. Other tools, like shovels and trowels, will be used, but you don't need one for each person. Four people can keep one wheelbarrow busy, but if you have a lot of mulch to move and 20 people helping, you will need at least five or six. For an event like this, it is best to purchase one or two for normal use and borrow others to handle the large number of volunteers. This is when local tool loan programs can be very helpful.
Status and Revision History
Published on Feb 19, 2013
Published with Full Review on Aug 31, 2016
Published with Full Review on Sep 30, 2019
Published with Full Review on Dec 14, 2022
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