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The general practice on air filtering is to have a water separator/particle filter first followed by a coalescing filter and then the pressure regulator, this prevents any particles and moisture interfering/contaminating with the pressure regulator. In some cases where you need ultra dry air, a refrigerated air dryers or desiccant beads would be used after the coalescing filter. As far as pressure rating of the coalescing filter, the Norgren F74C/F84C with the metal bowl "AD/QD models" are rated for a maximum pressure of 250 PSI. The limitation of the coalescing filters that the rated CFM is much lower than a similar sized water separator/particle filter. I am using the F74H which is a high flow variant, the F74C is still good for 33 CFM. These come and go on eBay, just need to look and sometimes offer a lower price.After-coolers should be between the compressor and the tank, they dramatically reduce the outlet air temperature and this results in the moisture dropping out in the tank. There are also Air-Liquid Centrifugal (Vortex) Separators that can be used to drop out most of the water before it gets into the tank, but the air must be cooled first before this. Some have plastic internals that limit the maximum temperature. Might be an consideration if one is using the compressor on a continuous high volume bases. Inter-coolers are between the first and 2nd stage of the compressor. I also recommend some form of automated tank drain, mine is mechanical and operates at the end of each on cycle. Some examples below, you can look up the nomenclature for the F74 and F84 series. I have been using these filters for many years, I am still on the same internal filters.I just noted that you probably want to use a manual drain as opposed to automatic for higher pressures. Didn't see that previously.Coalescing FilterNORGREN F74H-4AD-AD0Norgren F74C-4AD-AD0Particle/waterNorgren F74G-4AD-QD1NORGREN F74G-4AN-AD3
Hi there,
I have a few interesting problems that I have been exploring for a while now, but i quickly get beyond my level of knowledge of physics, so wondered if members of this Forum may be able to assist. One of the projects that we have been trying to solve is how to maintain a decent quality of water pressure for showers and toilets during blackouts without resorting to building a water tower.
I see from past threads that being clear and specific seems to help, so please let me explain some context. I am a disaster worker, working primarily in the coordination of shelter assistance in mega disasters, so i have a building background in the housing sector and post graduate studies in Resource and Environmental Science. Between disaster deployments I have been slowly building an eco-resort in a small village in a small village in South East Asia. So far we have ten rooms across half a dozen bungalows with organic gardens, living pools and a wholefood restaurant. We are trying to make the business as environmentally friendly and culturally sensitive as possible, but face a range of unique complexities.
One of the complexities we face is fairly regular power brown outs and black outs, which are obviously not too compatible with maintaining high quality services for tourists. To get around this we have installed small solar systems with batteries in each of the bungalows that directly run 12v lights, fans, usb chargers for phones, and the starters for instant gas hot water heaters. Protectionist state laws protecting the national power companies mean that there are significant challenges to installing larger solar systems. Decent quality inverters and lithium batteries are prohibitively expensive and importing almost anything is complicated and expensive. Legally (at least in theory) we would be required to be a certified licensed Energy Provider to go off the grid, and grid connected meters have only just been introduced offering horrendous power buy in and pay back rates and high monthly fees. Hence our solution of placing anything essential that is easy to run on 12v on small dispersed 'auxiliary' systems. We are still left right now with the problem of pumps and fridges, and hence for now are running a 5kva LPG Genset, but this has been reaching/exceeding the limit of its capacity and while we have moved more and more things to our dispersed solar system. We have very energy efficient fridges and freezers that hold their coolth quite well for a while, but I am stuck trying to figure out how to get around pumps for water pressure... hence this message
Clearly the obvious first answer is a water tower, and yes I do vacillate backwards and forwards about building one. There are however a few considerations that prevent me... Firstly it would need to be quite high to provide a decent amount of pressure, and secondly with a growing number of bungalows with baths, showers and toilets it would need to store quite a decent volume of water to get us through a decent black out. We estimate that if we used solinoids to block off the bathtubs during a blackout then we could survive on about 2,000L, though this will probably grow over time to around 3-4,000. Now this may not seem like much, but we have another complexity. Java where we are located is one of the most earthquake prone islands on earth, and we are in rice fields that are basically deep sandy volcanic mud, that is potentially liquefaction prone. So a water tower holding a few tonnes, 20-30m up would need to be pretty strong and require some fairly hefty investment in foundations. Another complexity is that as a foreigner I am not allowed to own land, but can only rent it. This makes a huge investment in foundations and towers seem fairly dubious compared to other solutions that I could take with me if our long term leases are ever not renewed. (This is one of the reasons all our bungalows are dismantle-able structures made from recycled teak, (built on engaged raft slabs which act as bell chambers for liquefaction proofing).
So my current thoughts are that I could use mains power to compress air into a reasonably larger tank at say 10-12 bar, and then use the compressed air to provide water pressure when the mains power is out.
The first option I see would be to simply run a Air Operated Double Diaphragm (AODD)pump in-line with our existing pressure pumps (or replacing it if the efficiency of running off compressed air is not too wildly different??). We could then simply maintain set the air pressure control valve to slightly below the standard pressure pump, and it would then effectively cut in as soon as the pressure dropped out in a power black out. (I presume we would need to install dampeners to smooth out the water supply).
The second option I have been considering is to buy some large 12" PVC piping and create our own pressurised water tank, again pressurised to just below the standard pressure in our system. This would sit in line in the system with water flowing through it to ensure it was not stale. As soon as the pressure in the water line dropped compressed air would enter at the top pushing water out the bottom until it was empty closing off with a float valve if it ran out. When power kicked back in the tank would then refill with air evacuating out a a pressure release valve set to a higher value that the air pressure in feed line, again using a simple float valve to close the the pressure vent when the tank was full.
I think that both these ideas would probably work, but I am no expert and am left with lots of questions that would be better answered prior to building either.
In the first option AODD pumps are relatively common in industry, so there is a baffling array of pumps available on the market, but I find it very difficult to work out exactly what I should specify. I am unclear as to exactly how much air this would use, my presumption is that if I wanted my water pressure to be at 3bar, then I would need to store 1 cubic meter of air compressed at 9bar to move 1 cubic meter of water. Is that correct or did I miss something obvious? Are these pumps noisy and or could I simply submerse it in one of my existing water tanks? As above I am also wonder if this system could in fact just replace my existing electric pressure pump all together? or would that be horrendously wasteful. As in, does a compressor consume far far more energy than the pump? Is there a particular type of compressor that would be better? We have both a few electric compressors, a larger one for our workshop, and a smaller silent oil free one we use for other applications, but could also obviously by another if needed.
With the second option, does it make sense? have I missed anything? I presume the air consumption calculations would be the same as the earlier example or again did i miss something. I presume with this solution I would need to use an oil free compressor or have an inline water and oil filter. I imagine this would be quite silent near the water tanks as an air hose could run back to the air compressor at our workshop. Did I miss anything obvious?
As I say i am no expert at any of this, but would love some advice or feedback before I go ahead with any of it. Maybe I am overlooking something and should just install a mega lead acid battery bank or something, I really don't know and as I say any advice would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
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