gggraham said:I believe the 230 style are standard equipment on John Deere, Case & Ford backhoes. I have had 5 backhoes, 6 buckets with them. I buy from my Case dealer, but Amazon prices seem good.
These are forged teeth not manufactured, stay away from the 23/230 series that is welded and manufactured.
The teeth you have now are 2A style see here for a referenceBuy some 2740-ZW-23 Shanks here in Canada they are $18, The teeth are 23HXL for $11 each or flares 23F for $14.50, pins for these teeth are $4 each. This is in Canadian Dollars so about 30% less in USD. Here is a link to 23/230 series teeth https://www.amazon.com/230-Style-Dirt-Bucket-Tooth/dp/B01N2G9ZC7 These are forged teeth not manufactured, stay away from the 23/230 series that is welded and manufactured.The teeth you have now are 2A style see here for a reference https://www.ebay.com/itm/273563539958
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I believe the 230 style are standard equipment on John Deere, Case & Ford backhoes. I have had 5 backhoes, 6 buckets with them. I buy from my Case dealer, but Amazon prices seem good.Outboard teeth are easy to install & remove, but inner teeth are a challenge. An offset driver helps, I've always used a makeshift assortment of steel cut offs, or drift punches. If I could make hardened, or forged tools, it'd be three tools:A punch with offset to remove old flex pins.Something similar but with a female cup to start the new.A 2' long, 2" square with a short pin off one side I could use to seat a flex pin.Larger buckets use a straight pin with a reduced point one side of the tooth. A spring collar fits inside the tooth. You drive the pin to expand the spring, until it drops into the skinny section of the pin. I like that system, haven't seen it for backhoe buckets.I have rebuilt several buckets. Companies like Hensley make cutting edges forged with tooth shanks. I've priced these, cost will discourage me!I once bought cutting edge from Adirondack Road Materials. They are gone. Last bucket I rebuilt, I couldn't find cutting edge, except as a specific part from Caterpillar ($$$$$$$$$). A fellow in MO had the size I needed he bought at an ?auction? sold me a 26" piece. I think I might have a new source in MA.
One of the most crucial inspection tips for used backhoes is to understand which parts of the machine to check before making a purchase. You have to make sure everything is running well and that you won't end up having to pay for extra repair work after buying the backhoe. By conducting an in-depth inspection of a used backhoe loader, you can ensure you're getting a backhoe in good condition.
Review the things to check before buying a used backhoe below:
A backhoe's hydraulic system is crucial for the machine's moving parts. A damaged system can cause these parts not to work entirely or operate at a less efficient pace. To ensure the backhoe works efficiently, you need to inspect the various hydraulic parts.
Begin by looking at the hoses, searching for any scratches or breaks while also ensuring the couplings are in prime condition. After checking couplings and hoses, look for cylinders that are leaking or damaged, as dents or scratches are indicators something could be wrong. Damage like dents and scratches can also open your hydraulic system to contaminants.
After checking the hydraulic system, inspect the engine, which should be located close by. Check for loose belts, out-of-date filters and obvious leaks. You can check a filter's status by looking at the last service date on the machine's notes.
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A backhoe's loader bucket is an essential piece of the machine. Make sure it's in good condition by observing the bucket and looking for signs of damage. As you search for wear, examine the bucket side panels' thickness, the bottom's condition, the structural integrity of bucket welds and the state of the leading edges.
You should also see if the bucket teeth have any missing bolts or missing, worn or loose teeth. Next, inspect the bucket's cutting edge for signs of damage, such as scalloping. If you notice that the bucket's cutting edge is worn down, you can often flip it to keep it working.
Once you've checked the bucket, you should also inspect the loader arms the bucket attaches to. Examine the arms for bends, re-welds and cracks. If you notice re-welds, you'll know that some repair work has been done. This should be a sign you need to review the workmanship and see if it was done by a professional. Bends will indicate that the machine was likely rolled, and cracks are often a sign of the backhoe loader being pushed beyond its capacity.
To make sure your operator will have acceptable conditions while driving the backhoe loader, examine the cab. Look over the foot pedals, joysticks and seat. Next, check for any additional pieces of technology or features. While in the cab, look for an hour meter reading to see if the wear is appropriate for how long the backhoe has been used.
You should also be given a chance to operate the backhoe loader to see if it runs well. Start the machine and put it through some standard operating tasks. After starting the backhoe, use the attachments and drive the backhoe, paying close attention. If you notice that it's hard to steer, the operating attachments lose pressure, there's a chattering noise or a high fluid temperature, it's likely the hydraulic system is damaged.
You can usually find loader backhoes with three kinds of axle configurations: 4x2, 4x4 or 4x4x4. Verify the equipment's configuration by inspecting the tire size and checking if the front axle has a drive shaft and differential. You can also verify the axle configuration with the machine's manufacturer. As you examine the axles, look for any signs of leakage.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of backhoe bucket teeth suppliers. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.