I would never put a bench chisel on a grinder. Way too easy to destroy the temper. Even on my low speed Rikon with a CBN wheel. It is too easy and quick to do it correctly. On a wheel, one false move and you have destroyed at least 1/4 of an inch of the tool.
Scary Sharp works, but real quickly becomes expensive. I have had many a machine and jig which never worked as well as I want. I now use the Veritas MK II jig for initial primary and then finish by hand. I have the expensive DMT stones, but there are many others. I bought too many incremental grits. I finish on a Shapton , but a bit of MDF and green compound can do just as well.
Getting the back flat is the hardest part of an old chisel. The bevel and edge are then easy. For a bench chisel, you need at least a couple inches of the back flat and the last bit taken to a polish. It does not matter how perfect the bevel is if the back is not just as good. Don't get carried away with how fine the grind is more than 1/8 from the edge.
I have been migrating from 3 bevels to two, to now only the primary on chisels less than 5/8 inch. I still do secondary on wider ones. Back to a single on my plane irons too, with the final strop being the secondary. Micro. I no longer use leather strop on bench chisels as it rounds the back. Shapton or MDF. I strop on leather carving and planes.
Everyone has their methods. Probably 100; 90 of which work. Pick one. Many video's, many very poor advice. Might start by looking at the Rob Cosman, Stumpy Nubs, Rex ( as above) and James Wright videos. None are the end all, but I find their videos reasonable and informative.
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